You follow the cobblestone passageways of the Barrio De Santa Cruz, and there you are—down again under the blooming orange blossoms and canopies of La Sierpes, and back into the Plaza San Salvador, and on each corner, each bench, each church step, there it is again: the sound of laughter.

The laughing here is always loudest during the Feria De Abril, the annual spring fair, and a time when the city stops to observe a week of late nights at the fair grounds in casetas, or medieval-style tents that have been controlled by Sevillian families for years. As divine as the spectacle can be, the casetas are private, and nearly impossible for travelers to talk their way in. You need a contact.


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